GreenCoast Hydroponics Blog

So I had this problem in my garden for what seems like forever : how to give my plants more root space without using huge amounts of very heavy media (such as Hydroton or diatomite rocks, which also need to be washed and cleaned of roots between crops, major hassle) or using more rockwool (expensive, hard to dispose of). The basic rule of thumb is, the larger the plant, the larger the container should be. Roughly this translates to one gallon of container space for each foot of plant height. So for example, if your plant is two feet high, it should be in a two-gallon container. For many years I’ve been growing in rockwool Hugos (the six-inch cubes) but I’ve found that the larger plants, i.e. those taller than two feet when put into flowering, tend to outgrow the Hugos quickly over the usual eight-week flowering cycle and suffer reduced yields as a result of becoming root-bound. I also have limited vertical space in my flowering room (the ceilings are a bit low, about seven feet) so I need to think of the height factor constantly.

I’d tried coco blocks years ago when they first came out, with poor results. It seemed like this fibrous material had to have a constant drip going, and I wasn’t looking for that extra hassle. So when Boss Daddy Jordan at the shop recommended three-gallon containers with loose coco coir, I was kinda skeptical. Using trays sitting above a reservoir, I already lose about two feet of vertical room, so the tall-ish buckets in this tray wouldn’t leave enough room for the larger plants I was hoping to grow.

What to do??

“Run-to-waste, Glasshoppa, run-to-waste,” Wiseman Jordan intoned. Heck, with my injured foot (long story) I can barely walk, much less run. What was this Guru of Growing on about, and why did I have to run there anyway?

Doing a little research on growing in coco coir soon gave me the answer. Basically, coco is the perfect medium for hydroponic growing – light, pH neutral, and able to hold lots of oxygen and water. All of these qualities makes for very healthy and happy roots, which as we know, leads to heavy yields. However, coco is most suited to a "runoff" system, where the nutrient solution is allowed to run to waste rather than the usual method of recirculating from a reservoir (this is also the method used by big commercial greenhouses as well). Run-to-waste helps avoid the possibility of salt buildup in the coco, and flushes unnecessary salts out of the media. Since not all plants use similar amounts of nutrient, and they also secrete salts, any surplus of nutrient makes the coco brackish and changes the pH. By drainage you flush the media every time you give nutrient, which prevents it from becoming brackish.

So, since I wasn’t gonna need the reservoir underneath the tray to catch runoff anymore, I decided to join the three gallon buckets together using ½ inch tubing to form a linked system, with a “drain bucket” with a pump to eliminate the runoff and an external reservoir for the feed, all of which simply sits on the floor. Voila! I just gained two feet of extra vertical space, woohoo! Plus I wouldn’t have to worry about solution in a reservoir building up yuckiness over each week as everything would simply run down the drain rather than recirculate. Cool!

Into the buckets I dropped the appropriate-sized mesh pots (the two-gallon size, I believe), then five-gallon size paint strainers to keep the coco from eroding away into the runoff solution and to allow the roots to grow down into the buckets if they wanted. I filled each mesh pot with a mix of Canna coco (three parts) and chunky perlite (one part) for a little more aeration, just to be sure. Before transplanting, I flushed the buckets with RO water adjusted to pH 5.8, then a weak (300ppm) bloom cycle nutrient solution to “prime” the media and flush out any small particles. Since the initial crop was still in Hugos, I simply placed the big cubes with the plants on top of each mesh pot, to allow the roots to grow down into the bucket. For the next crop I’ll be eliminating the Hugos entirely, transplanting directly into the coco from smaller pots.

So how’d it work out? Stay tuned for the next exciting entry in my coco-nut saga!

Hello growers! Just got back from a week in Juneau, Alaska, visiting an old high school buddy I hadn’t seen in over twenty years who lives there. What a gorgeous place! Juneau (which is actually the state capitol) is a small town on an island surrounded by snow-capped mountains, deep forests, and glaciers. The weather this time of year is cloudy, cool, and drizzly, not unlike what we get here in California during the winter. Throngs of touristas pour out of mammoth cruise ships that port in the small harbor for a day or two between the months of May and September, flooding the downtown area and basically tripling the town’s population, temporarily. Because Juneau is inaccessible by road, there’s a real feeling of isolation to the place; it seems like so many modern amenities we residents of the “Lower 48” take for granted are unavailable there. For example, there’s only two – TWO! – Mickey D’s in the entire town, and NO other fast-food chains like KFC, Carl’s, etc. Now, this doesn’t mean that I’m a fast-food junkie, but even the most remote desert burgs out in Nevada have a chain restaurant or three!

Basically this inaccessibility, plus the long harsh winters (including about a month where the sun barely gets above the horizon) means that Juneau is a tough place in which to do business. Pretty much everything must be brought in either on a barge up from Seattle or Vancouver, or by air. People tend to come in the spring and summer and leave by September to avoid the winters, when it can be difficult to get around (even for the barge bringing supplies from the outside world). On the other hand, it also means there are tremendous opportunities for business; Juneau needs EVERYTHING!!

One thing that struck me immediately was the shortage of fresh veggies. (Hey, I’m a California dude, I need my salads!! ) Lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli, herbs, etc – they all have to be shipped in from elsewhere, and you can tell…it’s just not very fresh in the stores (on the other hand, the locally-grown cherries and apples are crazy good!) Sometimes, the flow of veggies just stops altogether. “Hmmm, what could be done about this situation?” I wondered to myself, when a blinding flash of light went off in my head. No, it wasn’t a seizure…I had a brilliant idea: hydroponic gardening! What a perfect match, I thought…year-round gardens producing delicious green goodness even in the dead of winter, without depending on the barges.

What’s more, the bright, warm HID lighting for the plants would be quite therapeutic for countering Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), otherwise known as Winter Depression, which is believed to be caused by the low, pale light of the winter months (and in Alaska’s case, the lack of light altogether!) Also the heat from the lights could be recycled to warm a home as well.

So, I say – why not bring the glories of indoor gardening to Juneau! Who wants to be the first to open a hydroponics store there?? I sure would if I had the bucks, harsh winters be damned!

OK, there’s one other small hitch: the cost of electricity is pretty high. In fact, it went up nearly 500% overnight last winter when the local hydroelectric power plant was damaged by an avalanche that put it out of commission for several months, forcing the use of diesel generators (and we know what diesel costs these days). The plant is back online now, fortunately, but the average cost per kilowatt hour is still pretty high compared to the rest of the US.

Nonetheless, I think there’s a bright future (pun intended) for indoor gardening in this beautiful state. Once folks realize how fun (and potentially profitable) this hobby/business can be, I believe its popularity would really, ummm, grow rapidly. Anyone wanna step up?

Hey all -

Howzit growin? I'm Jason, the new dude here at Greencoast. I'll be managing this blog and helping out with product information on the company website, among other duties. I'm a writer by profession, but I've been growing indoors starting back in 1989 and have pretty extensive hydroponics experience. I've been told I have a "green thumb," but in fact I think I just understand plants and enjoy working with them. Hopefully, I'll be helping you make sense of the massive amount of products and information on hydroponics, with an eye towards getting the best results from your garden. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer!

Don't Miss VERMICROP Organics and FREE Vermi-T and Vermi-Blend Soil Amendment

IN LONG BEACCH Friday March 21, 2008 12NOON TILL to 7 p.m. or we run out!!!!...


IN ORANGE ON SATURDAY MARCH 22, 2008 12NOON till We RuN OuT!!!!!!...

VERMI-T HAS ALL OF THE BENEFITS OF A TRULY AERATED COMPOST TEA AND NONE OF THE MESS!!! THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS THAT WE HAVE BREWING AT OUR STORES!! THESE PRODUCTS ARE ENGINEERED FOR AMAZING RESULTS FOR YOUR GARDENS! TRY IT FREE ON FRIDAY MARCH 21 in LONG BEACH!!! and SATURDAY MARCH 22 in ORANGE!!!

Come to our stores and buy an Aerogarden Classic, or Aerogarden Deluxe between April 1 and June 30, 2008 to receive a free $20 Mail-In Rebate. Fill out the form on back and attach a UPC bar code with a store receipt. All rebates must be received by Sept. 1, 2008. Rebates will not be accepted without the UPC bar code from the box.

Hey, are you fascinated with BUGS?
Do you need help indentifying a bug/pest in your garden?
Do you want to to learn more about BUGS!!!?

Click on this link to look at a really great comprehensive website on BUGS!!! Enjoy!!

http://www.whatsthatbug.com/index.html

Hello,

We have a display unit in our store and the "add water light" will not
stop blinking. I have tried to reset the system with the reset button, and
I also tried unplugging the unit but the "add water light" will not stop
blinking. Do you have any suggestions for our display unit? I'd like to
have it functioning properly for our customers.

Sincerely,

Nupur - the LBC plant lady


Hello Nupur,

Thank you for contacting us concerning your AeroGarden.
Regarding the blinking 'add water' light, it sounds as if the float that monitors the water level has sunk. Fortunately, we have a simple solution for this.

As you look inside the garden bowl, you will see a small tube with Fill to Here printed on the top - the float is inside of that tube. Occasionally the seal on the float can crack and water collects inside, causing it to sink and trigger the add water light. Since you have provided your shipping address, we have placed an order for a replacement float.

To replace your float, grasp the 'fill to here' tube and turn it counter-clockwise (left) one quarter turn and pull up. The float will drop out and your new float can be inserted. Make sure that the float is placed inside the tube with the magnet facing down.

Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience. We look forward to hearing from you.

Thank you,
Jamie
AeroGrow Customer Care
1-800-476-9669

• Sticky Traps
• Nematodes - using successive applications of nematodes may control larvae and lessen the need for drenches such as azadaractin or pyrethrins. Here's a picture of these microscopic predators attacking fungus gnat larvae. Safe for people and pets.
• Pyrethrum TR Fogger 2 oz
• Organocide insecticide and fungicide

I've also heard that Gnatrol TM is an effective control.

If you haven't tried Vermicrop Organic's Vermi-T, come in to our stores we brew it fresh every week! Vermi-T has many benefits, for all plants. Vermi-T is affordably priced at $17.95 for a half gallon, and $24.95 for a gallon. 1 gallon can be used to treat up to 50 gallons. For best results use every week with every nutrient change. Or water once a week in soil, coco, or other medium such as rockwool. You can also use it with every watering, it will not burn plants.

Vermi-T is can also be applied as a foliar. To use as a foliar mix 150 ml of Vermi-T to 1 gallon of water.

Since Vermi-T contains living organisms it must be stored in a refrigerator for 7-10 days after the brewing process. All you need is 1.5 cups for every 5 gallons, soil or hydro and you get healthy plants which leads to more flowers and more fruits! YUM! That's the magic of Vermicrop Organics!

I am so excited! I just finished planting tomatoes in rockwool slabs and cubes at our Long Beach store! I'm using Canna's Aqua Vega and Rhizotonic along with a good dose of Vermi-T and HB-101 to get them started.

After seeing how well the organic eggplant we planted is growing using Canna Aqua Vega I decided to try it on our Greenhouse variety tomatoes. I'm also excited because in the eggplant trials I noticed the remarkable growth enhancement after adding HB-101 and Vermi-T.

Apparently, HB-101 creates an immediately beneficial environment for things like Vermi-T which is all about beneficial microbes. The idea behind this philosophy of growing is for the microbes to get started faster which will allow the tomatoes to get started faster and absorb necessary nutrients for fruit production. Yum!

I love the Compression Sprayers that we carry! They sure make a job like "Plant Lady" easy! I have two Compression Sprayers, one for oil based sprays such as Azatrol, or Einstein Oil and one for Foliars such as HB-101. Who on this Earth, would want to hand mist a hundred plants with a squirt bottle when you can get a Compression Sprayer? That's the short road to tendonitis! Besides, a Compression Sprayer can deliver a fine mist which means you can get a fine mist rather than a squirt, and its easy to spray under the leaves where insects are notorious for hiding!

Compression Sprayers are easy to clean: just hold the handle while you unlock and unscrew the pressure sealed cap, take out the plastic tube from the cap underside and dislodge the tiny cap on the bottom of the plastic tube to expel any last liquids from inside the tube. Rinse contents thoroughly and replace. Let dry overnight.

Ok, the title of this blog is a bit violent, but thrips are nasty pests that all growers can experience without evening knowing it. They are small rice shaped 1/16-1/8 of an inch in diameter, adult thrips have wings and the larvae are legless. They usually appear hiding on leaf undersides but when active can be seen on the tops of leaf surfaces, on the tops of plants, and depending on the species INSIDE FLOWERS and FRUITS! They feed by rasping the leaf tissue causing silvery blotches of skeletonized tissue to appear on the leaves, black dots which is thrip feces (disgusting) appears on leaves as well. This method of feeding sucks the plant of it's vitality. The sad thing is that these pests can cause unsightly damage to flowers, flower buds, and developing foliage as well as transmit viruses and weaken the plant which results in poor health and a reduction in yield. I should know because I've been a victim of their attack up until now. Not only that, but I've cut open a store bought bell pepper to discover thrips growing and feeding INSIDE THE FRUIT!!! ((gross)) Where do they come from, how did they get inside a bell pepper you ask? But you should be asking "How do you get RID OF/KILL THRIPS?" The answer: Spinosad. We now carry 2 different products in our stores that contain Spinosad. Spinosad was found naturally growing on the floor of a rum distillery in the early nineties and is a safe, effective control for thrips, caterpillars, and other insects! Apply Spinosad, and say "Sionaara/Goodbye thrips." Then sing the song "Thrip-Killin!" at full volume. Reports from our friends say they are now officially Thrip Killers!

After starting our Organic Black Beauty Eggplant seeds in Readygro plugs we transfered 24 plants to our Botanicare Aeroponic Microgardens and are trying three different nutrient regimes to compare the products. We are trying House and Garden Hydro A/B with Roots Excelurator, Canna Aqua Vega A/B with Rhizotonic, and Botanicare's Pureblend Pro-Gro with a new product called Roots Bloom from Advanced Floraculture. Of course all the Eggplant are receiving Vermi-T from Vermicrop Organics Vermi T 5/10 Extractor and HB-101 in the root zone and twice a week as a foliar spray, in conjunction with foliar applications of Azatrol every 2-3 days. Both of these products are OMRI listed and safe to use around people and pets.

It's nearing week 3 of our experiment and we have seen only two aphids. Not only that but we've noted that the HB-101 is making our eggplant look luscious and happy. Also in the garden that is running the Pureblend Pro-Gro nutrient, we noticed that the eggplants in this garden were behind the other eggplants not because of the nutrient but because the manifold was not properly pressurized which caused a reduction in the amount of spray the eggplants have been receiving. A new fitting should solve our problems and correct this issue.

Some of the things that we are excited about using products such as Vermi-T, HB-101, and Azatrol is that these products are OMRI listed which allows us to grow more organically and reduces the needs for harsh chemicals and pesticides. We're also excited because we've got basil growing and grilled eggplant with basil sounds delicious!

It all started with this gorgeous plant. Beautiful, glossy, orange flowers, and later I found out that it came with a case of whiteflies. The small greenhouse whiteflies to be exact. There are two types of whitefly that usually infest indoor gardens, greenhouse whitefly and citrus whitefly. However other types of whitefly do exist, depending on the type you have it may not be easy to treat since the insect has a hard waxy coating on the outside of it's body which can be difficult to penetrate with sprays.

The greenhouse whitefly are smaller and have a different wing shape than the citrus whitefly. Look up the two types in google images or click on the links to see which case you've got if you got the little buggers. Sometimes you don't notice you have whiteflies until after brushing the leaves of a plant which may cause the lurking whiteflies to take flight. Plants may also appear to lose vigor, and grow poorly. To eliminate these pests every good gardener must go to battle.

I usually start my first defense with a case of yellow sticky traps, not only are they good for catching gnats but they are a graveyard for catching whiteflies. Gently shake or brush your plants and watch the whiteflies hover to the sticky traps - elimination by sheer numbers.

The second defense is to spray the plants with an insecticide that targets whitefly like Pest-Out, Organocide, or Safer Insecticidal Soap Spray. You can repeat the spraying every three days until control is established. Depending on the leaf type, soft clothes dipped in rubbing alcohol can be rubbed on the leaves to dislodge the whitefly eggs and pupae on the underside of the leaves.

A combination of eliminating whitefly numbers, eggs, using sticky traps, and spraying is usually pretty good to contain a whitefly infestation. But if you want to step up the battle a notch and achieve the winning combination the best thing to use in addition to the aformentioned weapons, is some Encarsia formosa.

Encarsia what? Encarsia formosa, or Whitefly Parasites. Do such things exist? Yes. We can order them for you, they arrive in the mail, little eggs glued on cards that are placed on a branch or stem of a plant. Underneath in the shaded canopy of leaves, the tiny eggs hatch and turn into Whitefly Parasites .

What do these Whitefly Parasites do for you? During their life-span hatched parasites eat young whiteflies, and lay their eggs into many more whitefly eggs. This kills the developing whiteflies, and produces a new generation of parasites 4 weeks later that can continue to feed on any existing whiteflies.

The amazing thing is you may not even ever see these Whitefly Parasites at work battling for you, they're so small. You'll just notice the parasatized whitefly eggs that turn black and a huge reduction in the whitefly population. Also spraying organic insecticides at least 3 days before releasing predators appears to have no effect on the predators.

To summarize, we had greenhouse whiteflies. But due to our vigilance, and the help of Encarsia formosa, we don't have whiteflies anymore. Good luck battling!

I have a 10 gallon reservoir (dwc) and ultrasonic fogger with well controlled temps (now that I've been using a chiller!), but unfortunately developed a nasty case of a goo that looks like uncooked egg whites or snot on the roots of my plants. I originally tried SM-90 along with some additional H2O2 after sterilizing my system, but that didn't seem to help as I eventually lost 4 plants. We found Hygrozyme on your site and I've been trying this for two days now after switching over to it.Again I completely cleaned my system out and tried removing as much gunk from the roots as possible. I added 80 ml of hygrozyme to clean water only and I've been running this for 48 hours, planning on 72 hours before reintroducing some B vitamins and nutrients again. My problem is that it doesn't look like this stuff is working at all. The gunk keeps coming back, more than ever. What am I doing wrong?

I am sorry to hear about your problems. . .First and foremost I would advise you to get off of Deep Water Culture (DWC) as soon as humanly possible ; )

Next I would monitor your water temperatures, which consequently play a large role in maintaining a healthy root zone. Lower water Temps carry and hold larger amounts of Oxygen which is precious to the health of your root zone. An air stone and pump is not enough. . .Ideal water temp is between 66-68 deg. F. I know you have a chiller – but what is it set to? Also, if battling root rot – like you surely are (run of the mill - pythium I believe) – you can lower your res temps to 60 deg. Until the problem goes away.

Stop using H202. It is NOT a good oxidizer (unless at pH of 2.0 which is not advisable for good plant health) and is NOT killing the pathogen organisms that are alive and thriving in your DWC system(s) and thus killing your root systems (and your plants). H202 also strips nutrients out of solution (forming unusable precipitates).

Hygrozyme is a good product at performing a variety of different functions for plants. Battling a root rot fungi (like what you have) is not one of them. It will fight a bacterial rot really well, and it will increase newly formed roots, as well as increase your yield significantly. . .

The good news is that there have been some REALLY GOOD products released on the market as of late.

ZONE – This product Will Kill most microbes. It utilizes essential oils and monochloramine to effectively create an environment that is harsh for microbes to live and produce in, and is still soft and nourishing for plant’s roots systems. It is the cheaper of the two options I am going to susggest. Bad news – you can not use this product with any beneficial organism (like subculture, voodoo juice, piranha, root growth enhancer, tarantula, etc.) as well as any enzyme solution (such as Hygrozyme, Sensizym, Cannazym, etc.).

Regardless if you go with just Zone or end up with Roots Excel. . .You will need to use Zone first to sterilize your root zone. You will use 1 tsp / Gal. until the problem goes away, then you can lower it down to 1 tsp. / 2.5 Gals.

NOTE: If Zone doesn’t work (with low reservoir temps) then you will need to start over. I don’t think this will be the case. . .But just warning you.

ROOTS EXCELURATOR – This stuff is oh! So expensive and Oh! So equally good. It grows new roots like you wouldn’t believe. Fast acting (average time is 3 days to Blow new roots out.) and keeps roots very healthy! Creates abundant amounts of fuzzy micro hairs. . . It is not the best (although it is good) at bringing roots back to health and battling off a pathogen like the one you have in your res and root zone right now. . .That is why I suggest using Zone first. In fact these two products are great to have in your tool box. Together, when used properly they will keep roots ultra healthy from start all the way up to harvest.

Question: Spidermite infestation, once it has been controlled, how
does one keep it from coming back? How and where do they come from and can
they be eradicated before hitting our plants?

Answer: First of all after control has been established over an indoor insect population the best thing to do is be vigilant, inspect your plants daily so that any eggs that were missed can be dealt with as soon as they hatch. Your plants will love you for it.

Spidermites can come with plants or cuttings that you bring to your indoor garden. Spidermites can travel on your clothes, on your shoes, on your pets, and with air currents! In order to thrive spidermites like warm, dry conditions - which generally can be found indoors. If you can lower your temperature to 70-72 degrees and/or add humidity (up to 65% depending on the type of plant) to your growing environment, pests such as spidermites may remain inactive - which means that you might see them on your plants but they won't be doing any damage.

Greenhouse workers have been known to change their clothes, and step with their shoes in shallow pans of bleach water before entering a greenhouse. Also if you have any vent openings in your indoor garden that lead to the outside, they should be screened to prevent insects from entering.

You can use the sticky substance "Tanglefoot" around the base of plants to prevent spidermites and crawling insects from moving from one plant to the next. Depending on the type of mite infestation you have, you can purchase and introduce predator mites (they are carnivorous mites) that will eat the spidermites that are harming your plants.

Spraying your plants with an oil based spray (turn your lights off or very high up until the plants are dry), will help protect the plant against an insect infestation. Weekly sprayings with Azatrol or Einstein Oil (sometimes every 2-3 days) can help control an insect infestation if one happens to gain a footing on the plants.

Hope this information helps, Good Luck!

Sincerely,
the LBC plantlady

The Aerogardens™ are about the cutest little aeroponic units I've ever seen! The bustling gardens do so well that Aerogarden™ has made an extendable arm kit available, and a Master Gardener Kit to grow and start your own plants indoors! The Aerogarden™ can grow plants with just two compact florescent bulbs and comes with a free seed kit, a great gift to start growing on sale in GreenCoast stores for $143.96 + tax. We can get you the best price in town for these units. Hurry! They are going fast!
The AeroGarden™ has a great WARRANTY: The AeroGarden™ itself is covered for one year from date of original purchase. The two grow bulbs are covered for six month from date of original purchase. The seed
kit is covered for one month from date of original purchase. Aerogardens™ has a 30 Day Money Back Guarantee! The garden uses two simple organic-made tablets to add to the water and rapidly sprouts seeds to grows herbs like chives, and basil, some of the best, fresh herbs I've ever tasted! Yum! What's even better is that these products are 20% off just like the rest of our 20% OFF ENTIRE STORE INVENTORY SALE! Come in to our three stores and get the best deals in town! I'll be planting a garden of organic leafy greens and cut flowers in the Long Beach location! Happy Growing for the Holidays!

Labels: Aerogardens

HB-101 is OMRI listed for use in organic production. Our customers have told us that hours after spraying HB-101, they noticed how happy their plants seemed. Orchid growers have also reported that soon after spraying HB-101, orchids that have never produced so much as a bud begin setting flower spikes. So, without further ado, we're going to include some handy tips for incorporating HB-101 into your gardening regime.

Germinating Seeds:
Soak seeds in HB-101 diluted to 1/1000 parts water; as follows:
BEANS - 10 seconds
ROOT VEGETABLES - one to thirty minutes
LEAFY VEGETABLES - three hours
OTHER VEGETABLES, FLOWERS, FRUITS and TREES - 12 hours
RICE and GRAINS - over 24 hours, up to one week


Flower and Vegetable Seedlings:
Spray HB-101 diluted to 1/1000 parts water directly on to seedlings once a week for three weeks.

Watering Vegetable and Flower Transplants:
Irrigate and spray 11,000 sq. ft of land with 3.38 oz HB-1-1 diluted at least 1/1000 parts once each week.

Fruit Trees:
For the six month period following harvest irrigate soil with HB-101 diluted to at least 1/1000 parts water once a month. For the six months before harvesting irrigate soil and spray foliage with 1/1000 part dilution twice a month.

Ornamental and Potted Plants:
Apply HB-101 at a dilution of 1/1000 to 1/10,000 parts water once a week throughout the year both as soil irrigation and foliar spray.

NOTES ON MEASURING HB-101:
3.5 cc of HB-101 to one gallon of water yields a dilution ration of 1/1000. (For regular use, 1/1000 is the strongest recommneded dilution.)
2.5 cc = 1/2 teaspoon. (1/2 teaspoon HB-101 to one gallon of water yields approximately 1/1,600 dilution.)

CAUTION:
Please use HB-101 as soon as possible after diluting as efficacy may diminish over time. HB-101 may be mixed with other fertilizers, but cannot be used with petrochemicals or alkaloids.

Please use HB-101 only as directed

REMEMBER: Spraying indoors? Raise your lights, or spray with the lights off!

Azatrol:
A little info about Azatrol and how to apply in the reservoir,
soil, and as a foliar to target and combat pests.

Azatrol is ecofriendly: you are doing mankind, the planet, and your plants a favor. Azatrol is OMRI certified, it does not contain neem oil, neem bitters, and does not affect taste, aroma, or color. It works on bugs such as mites, aphids, root aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beatles, etc.

After ingesting Azatrol an insect can’t feed, they feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they cant form a pupae. Ultimately the insects end up becoming paralyzed and dying. After feeding on a plant that has been treated with Azatrol a female insect can’t lay any eggs. Because of the way Azatrol works, insects don’t gain resistance. Azatrol is a growth inhibitor, a reproductive inhibitor and it works to interrupts an insect’s brain and neurotransmitters. If insects do make it to adult hood they are going to be super messed up.

Foliar with Azatrol:

Spray every week, twice a week in the beginning. After control is established began spraying every other week.

In the fruiting stage if you are spraying plants that are indoors you need to worry about mold, outside mold is less of a problem for plants because the plants dry out quicker.

Quart size foliar application: In a quart mix 3 tsp. of Azatrol and a few drops of wetting agent with distilled or RO water. Shake and apply. Wait 5 days and reapply by increasing dose to 4.5 tsp of Azatrol with wetting agent and water. If spraying indoors we recommend raising the lights or spraying while the lights are off. Outdoors spray either early in the morning or at dusk. For best results use within 24 hours.


In the reservoir/soil:

Same with the reservoir, go ahead and mix all your nutrients and reserve 1-2 gallons of water in a separate bucket:



In a separate bucket:


of 1-2 gallons of water add Azatrol (1 oz for every 10 gallons in the reservoir) mix it well inside the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir would use 2 oz of Azatrol mixed in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir.

Use every week hydro or soil (1 oz to 10 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative.

In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer so it’s not that big of a deal the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.



Cuttings:

To inoculize the plant tissue from the very beginning dunk cuttings in the same solution you mix for the reservoir (1 oz to 10 gallons.)

I think the tomatoes liked it! No bugs, no weird discoloration, just a lot of gunk in the reservoir after a week of Azatrol! It didn't clog the aero-system or the sprayers but I would say it's probably not a good idea to run beneficials with this stuff, just so you don't end up clogging your aero-system. I think I'll wait another week and then reapply the Azatrol to the reservoir again. I think two applications early on should be sufficient to control and pest issues that may arise. The only thing I've noticed about the tomatoes is that some of the leaf are ia curling inward, a sign that they are being underwatered judging from how dry their roots were when I lifted the lids. I've corrected the problem and hopefully we'll see a flush of new growth this next week.

Here at the shop our seedling tomatoes that we started in our Ready-gro plugs have been growing hydroponically for almost three weeks now. And they are looking happy! We haven't noticed any pests yet, and we don't want to so it's the perfect time to use Azatrol. Traditionally we have used Azatrol as a foliar spray, but it is also able to be used in the reservoir. From my experience spraying our plants with Azatrol I have witnessed that if an insect infestation does occur it is minor and easily contained. It's probably because of the way that Azatrol works, it's so effective that insects can't even build resistance to it. Well bottoms up, let's see how the tomatoes like Azatrol in the reservoir.

We took a hiatus on the blog, but we're back and better than ever! Make sure to visit both Greencoast Hydroponics for a chance to participate in our Greencoast Brew-Ha-Ha! From 11 A.M. to 6 P.M. in Long Beach on Friday, September 7, 2007! And 11 A.M. to 6 P.M. in Santa Barbara on Saturday, September 8, 2007! What's a Brew-Ha-Ha you ask? Well brouhaha in French, means hubbub, or uproar. So take your pick, because either way it's going to be a super exciting day full of opportunities to get samples and meet representatives from companies such as Advanced Nutrients, Hydrofarm, and Organics Alive! Enter our in store raffles to win fabulous prizes! It's going to be a great weekend for hydroponics, mark your calendars and make sure to visit us!

There are a lot of people talking about Bio Bizz nutrients. This is because a high quality, high potency organic hydropnic nutrient has been hard to find - BioBizz is the first to really meet the exacting standards of hydro and soil growers. Bio Bizz is the first European hydroponics company to successfully acquire OMRI and EKO organic certification. It is a cutting edge nutrient.. but like all organic nutrients, it has its limitations.

BioBizz is made from an organic base and all their products are Organic With the EXCEPTION of their BioBloom which is "mostly Organic" and only employs 'all natural' minerals such as Rock Phosphate and Calcium Carbonate which are refined or any way synthesized in a lab. These minerals are used to give the plants the extra Boost of energy needed to create large swollen fruits competing with any "mineral - based" nutrient formula.

Bio Bizz is not a great choice for recirculating hydroponic systems that only change the reservoir every 7-14 days. The reason for this is two fold - The first reason is that Bio Bizz is so full of organic goodness and beneficial beasties that a sitting reservoir of this stuff will become an unholy gloppy mess. (and stinky too!). The second reason is that it is a thick formula and it will goop up and plug sprayers and fittings.

That said, for growers who are looking for the best flavor, and do not require a fully automated system, Bio Bizz is a fantastic choice. BioBizz works best on either soil or a a soil or compost based media (such as Bio Bizz AllMix or with Fox Farm Potting Soil, Ocean Forest and Light Warrior- or a blend of all 3,) or with a good coco mix such as BioBizz Coco or Canna Coco (more to come on mixes later.) It is a complete supercharged nutrient with a family of organic additives which will give your plants all the nutrition they need as well as a boost of hormones enzymes to boost their yield.

BioBizz is made to be used in a 'drain to waste based system' - one in which is either delivered by 'hand watering,' 'wand watering' or in a 'drip based watering system.' This is to prevent any fermentation reactions from happening in a reservoir or holding tank. These nutrients are alive with micro-biological organisms and have ample amounts of Molasses which both feed these organisms as well as replenish the plants carbohydrate reserve - helping to create plant tissue matter more readily.

There is so much potential in this nutrient, in this way of growing. It is easy to get overwhelmed. . .Or in my case over-zealous. This nutrient is on the cutting edge of Hydroponics and of Soil growing. What am I talking about – cutting edge. There is always something cutting edge. But this is not just a magic bullet nutrient formula. This is a revolution in the way we look at growing plants! What the heck is he talking about? Cutting edge? Hydro - Soil? Merging of the two? And my answer to this is what? This method is real. The method of growing is here. . .Now! It has a name – Its name is Bio. Bioponics. This comes to us from all over Europe, especially from Amsterdam, where growing plants is a way of life; one of their largest industries.

This is the future of growing. It is the future of the science of Growing, the melding the flavor, aroma, and fluorishment of soil growing, with the speed, vigor, and yield of hydro. It is still in its birthing phase - or maybe its infantile phase. . .But it is growing and changing and advancing and you can contribute, gain from it and give to it – Help transform and take it to a whole new level. BioBizz is just the first in many new nutrients that will follow this new and emerging way of growing.

The BioBizz Line:
BioGrow
BioBloom
Alg-A-Mic
TopMax
Fish Mix
Root Juice


Other Additives to add with this line:

Soluble Root Growth Enhancer – Apply this to the the plant Once when firs putting clone in media, then again when entering Bloom and also apply one final time 4 weeks into Bloom to give them a final boost. This will inoculate your plants with Mychorizzae (endo and ecto – many different strains.) – Follow directions on bottle.

SubCulture. Apply every week. . .For all of Veg and then 1st two weeks of Bloom: This will inoculate (mention the strains from GH website – or label. . .of bacteria and Trichoderma)

Hygrozyme – Enzyme Solution – breaks down dead organic matter and prevents the formation of pythium

Barricade – Potassium Silicates – Advanced Nutrients Barricade will substantially strengthen and boost your plants vigor by increasing cell wall stability

Bio growing, when done correctly, as briefly mentioned before, gives you the best of both the hydro and soil growing worlds. You get the aeration of a hydro-based environment and the minerals, humates, enzymes, hormones, carbohydrates, and other organic materials of a soil based one.

To really grow a Bioponic based show, you will need to use a super aerated medium. Coco is perfect for this. It has a capacity to hold 60% - 70% water and 30% - 40% air. (By itself, it hlds just as much – if not more air than Rockwool – and is pH’d balanced already.) It has naturally occurring enzymes which are just now being uncovered and properly investigated which are amazing for root growth, and it has a natural habitat which is great for (and in many cases already houses) Trichoderma ( a beneficial Fungi which does a plethora of great Things for the roots - grows, protects, synthesizes hormones, etc.) and other beneficial micro-organisms. Mychorrizae also thrive and colonize at a very rapid rate in Coco. And Oh! There is so so SO much to say about those beautiful little creatures. . .but I digress.

Coco is amazing, yes! But still it needs to be mixed and cut with other materials. It is just a soil substitute. There is no longer any need for Soil. No need. Coco will do all that soil will and do it better. But, no seasoned soil grwer will just grow with soil alone; just potting soil. Nope, not at all. . .A mix must be created. Here are some examples of mixes that get the job done right:

1. Simple Performance Coco Mix
50% Coco
50% Perlite--- This will be closest to a Hydro Mix and can be used in any hydro - based system. You can mess with the ratio a bit and go for 60% - 40% either way. More coco more water holding - more Perlite more aeration.

2. Coco - Bio Mix
40% Coco
40% Perlite - Pumice mix
20% Compost (Organic - with Redwood Bark - Mychorrizae love the bark - they eat it up endlessly grow.)
5% Bonus - Biologicals

3.Bio CocoPeat Mix
40% Coco Peat
40% Perlite - Pumice mix
20% Compost (Organicw/redwood bark - Mychorrizae love bark - they eat it up & endlessly grow.)
5% Bonus - Biologicals

Biologicals?
You have GOT to add biologicals - both bacterial and fungal to this mix. It is what makes it ALIVE. They will ward off invading pathogens, they will help absorb those beautiful nutrients, they will even create enzymes and hormones to help speed up the metabolism of your plants. Just think a soil ALIVE and buzzing - Thriving with microbial life all working to help your plants create more bigger, stronger, better Fruit, and Flowers.

You can blend in a lot of other good stuff in this mix. The compost will act like th glue which holds it all together. The compost will hold some nutrient as well as earthworm castings, and guanos - they all have different mineral rations and can be combined to create an amazing mix

To add these beneficials you can use PreMix (from BioBizz to add these beneficials) or you can use BioLive and Down To Earth Soluble Root Growth Enhancer.

To Really do it right, use a Bio Filter
As far as feeding and watering goes with BioBizz - As mentioned above it must be used as a drain to waste based system. BioBizz can only sit in an aerated reservoir (which must be maintained at 68-72 deg. F with plenty of air stones, a mixing pump, and even a powerhead.) for up to 4 days. After that it will begin to ferment - and once this happens it can either way - good or bad. So, in short it is not worth the risk.

To the BioBizz mix we really recommend inoculating the res with some beneficial micro-organisms such as those found in Subculture - We recommend using it at 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons. Then we also recommend hooking a BioFilter up to this reservoir. BioFilters have been used in the Aquarium industry for years and there is a variety of them. The best we have found are cartridge based ones, filled simply with a media called BioBalls. These filters simply provide an aerated environment for water (containing the inoculated micro-organisms) to flow from the reservoir to the filter - trickling over the BioBalls The BioBalls house and support this microbial life. This facilitates micro bios to be fed to the plants every time you water. When feeding make sure you saturate your media all the way to the bottom with a 5% run-off.

ALSO: Very important make sure all your containers - or raised beds have plenty of good drainage at the bottom - This is done best by including 1-2" of rocks at the bottom of any container. Hydroton grow rocks are perfect for this. In this way you will make sure that you will not have any water-logged containers deprived of available O2 which will harm and eventually kill your precious roots.

Remember - The most important thing beyond a base level of nutrition and water (to your roots) is Oxygen. It alone is what is going to give your plants that rapid vigorous growth that we covet SO much. So make sure you have properly aerated your mix and container or bed.

ALSO NOTE: Most root rot pathogens are anaerobic and thrive in an environment deprived of O2 and are very opportunistic - taking advantage of any opportunity to take over and inflict damage to already damaged roots. More to come on what additives to use with Bioizz - what the additives do, and how to feed. . .

Here's an interesting inquiry we got this week

I want to grow vegetables hydroponically for my business. (Especially tomatoes,cucumbers,peppers,etc. mushrooms?) I want to be able to grow vegetables year round if possible. Are there limitations as to what kind of plants you can grow or does it just depend on how much space you have?

Just about any vegetable can be grown hydroponically - even root crops like potatoes & carrots. The limitation are usually space and energy. There are lots of resources on the internet for folks growing specialty crops. Below i am pasting a few of our favorite.

Good luck!

Greenhouse and Hydroponic Vegetable Production Resources

Handbook for the Production of CEA Grown Hydroponic Lettuce

Handbook for the Production of CEA Grown Hydroponic Spinach

Handbook for the Production of CEA Grown Hydroponic Pak Choi

UCDavis Small Farms Center

I have been battling aphids at the Long Beach Store. It started innocently enough. I started eggplant seeds under some fluorescent lights in the front window of our store. The seeds did fine and i got about 99% of them sprouting and growing nicely. Once they had their first 'true leaves' i went ahead and transplanted the cute little seedlings into our recirculating hydroponic drip system. The plants are doing ok, but not great because they are covered with aphids! I had ignored the ants all this time coming in under the front door. I didn't realize these ants were farming aphids on my eggplants. Apparently the ants have been bringing them in and milking them for honeydew. As if they were cows.

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that suck plant fluids with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. They may be either winged or wingless, and their color may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black, depending on the species. Most species have a pair of "exhaust pipe" structures called cornicles projecting out of the hind end of their body. The presence of cornicles distinguishes aphids from all other insects.

Aphid colonies are often located on the undersides of leaves. Curled, distorted leaves and sticky honeydew (aphid excrement) on leaves indicates the presence of aphids. Black, sooty mold may grow where honeydew has been deposited. Aphids transmit viruses that can cause plant diseases, but eggplant is not as susceptible to these as are some other vegetable crops. Fortunately, eggplants can generally tolerate moderate feeding without significant damage. Young plants are more susceptible to aphid damage than older plants. Aphid-infested seedlings can be killed or severely distorted.


Guide to Commercial Eggplant Production ANR-1098, New July 1998. J.M. Kemble, E.J. Sikora,E.H. Simonne, G.W. Zehnder, M.G. Patterson, all at Auburn University

Ok. So i definately have aphids. no question about it. But it does sound like by eggplants can handle some aphids without totally giving in. My plan of attack will be to knock down the aphids with insecticidal soap. I am going to spray on a regular basis for a couple of weeks. Then i will release Lacewings Larvae into the growing environment.

The first thing i have tried is Safer Insecticidal Soap. This soap is basically a physical insecticide that breaks down cell walls and basically bursts and dries out bugs. It is supposedly very effective against soft bodied pests like aphids. I have been using it every few days for about a week. I have seen a reduction in aphids and the tell-tale signs of dead, dried up aphid bodies. It seems that they need regular treatment because it seems rather mild and i haven't seen a total , because the aphids that are left immediately start reproducing again and if i don't treat again than the population will start booming again.

The nice thing about this product is that it breaks down quickly and is pretty inexspensive. It is a good choice if you don't mind spraying regularly.

Stay tuned for my adventures with neem oil...

We often recomend that you sterilize a room and plastics with bleach. Here is a link that says much more than i ever could how strong it is and how to be careful with it.

All About Bleach

A few customers have been struggling with some sort of root rot problem. These are experienced growers who have had many many crops and are baffled by this new variable.

The problem is characterized by the roots doing great until the second week of bloom, and then around that point they turn brown and start disintegrating. They smell musty, like a dirty aquarium. A few of the less hardy plants wilt. Others begin yellowing. While the harvest is not entirely ruined, it is not close to what had been expected or hoped for.

Until we know for sure what the problem is, here is the advice i have given:

1. while a small, hobby grower might be able to do just fine without a chiller, i would advise any professional grower to Use a water chiller. Get the reservoir temperature down to 68 degrees. Plants can handle even cooler temps that that, but they are not able to take up as much nutrient. Warmer temperatures encourage pathogens. I would say that any reservoir above 72 degrees is just asking for problems.
   
2. Control those fungus gnats! Even though the damage fungus gnats can do seems microscopic and not very important, their tiny size is misleading. Fungus gnat larvae do damage roots, and they provide wounds in the roots for pathogens to enter the plants' vascular systems. We suggest the use of gnatrol and can special order it for you.
   
3. Innoculate the plants with beneficials - products like Piranha & Voodoo Juice are very effective.
4. Use an enzyme product throughout the cycle - i suggest Hygrozyme - i really do think it is the best product on the market.
5. Make sure those roots have plenty of airation
6. Silica would be a good choice for addition to the nutrient routine to strengthen cell walls.

We have had a great and exciting year at GreenCoast Hydroponics. We have been involved in lots of fun volutnteer and educational projects. We have also tested tons of new products. Our problem has been letting our customers know what we are up to.


We are introducing this blog as a way of keeping folks up to date with what is new and exciting in the hydro world.

And away we go!