| |
Spider mites are members of the arachnid class along with spiders
and ticks. The term "spider mite" comes from their behavior
of spinning fine silk webs on infested leaves and new growth. The
two spotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae is the major
spider mite pest of ornamental, floral and vegetable crops grown
in greenhouses. Adults have 8 legs and an oval body, with 2 red
eyespots near the head end of the body. Females usually have a large
dark blotch on each side of the body and numerous bristles covering
the legs and body. They look sort of like bristly black dots, and
at 1/60th of an inch they are practically microscopic. Their eggs
are visible too - they are very tiny, white and are laid grouped
closely together. Infestations decrease plant production and the
physical damage mites cause makes plants unattractive and weak.
Many houseplants indoors are hospitable to spider mite infestations,
and the same goes for plants grown in an indoor growroom or greenhouse.
Two spotted mites damage plants by piercing single leaf cells and
sucking out the contents, causing the cells to collapse and die.
This is the cause of the speckled browning found on leaves with
spider mite infestations. The undersides of leaves may appear yellowish
and crusty. In heavy infestations the mites remove nearly all the
chlorophyll, and leaves crumple, die and fall off. When large populations
have been present for a few weeks, fine silk webbing may cover large
areas of the plant. The mites disperse from a plant of declining
food quality on threads of webbing and drift or are blown on to
other plants. If you look closely at these webs you can see tiny
little spiders running back and forth.
Life Cycle and Environment
In a given colony of two-spotted spider mites, both adult males
and females are present, however females usually out number males
three to one. This factor accounts for their high reproduction rate
as a single female can lay on average over 200 eggs in her life
time. (Bessin.) Females normally lay eggs on the underside of leaves.
The rate at which a two spotted spider mite develops from an egg
to an adult is greatly dependent on environment. Their life cycle
is accelerated at higher temperatures. This is one of the reasons
that these mites are such large greenhouse pests. In the artificial
environment of a warm lighted greenhouse, the mites are able to
reproduce quickly and to be active throughout most or all of the
year.
A Healthy System Approach
In an ideal situation, the plants themselves would be healthy enough
not to succumb to light mite populations (meaning, a few mites may
be present but they are causing no significant damage,) predator
populations would be at a sufficient number to keep damage below
the critical level, and environmental conditions would be such that
they would favor the good guys and not the bad guys. It is possible
to reach these goals in any grow area.
The first step in the program is to keep plants healthy. Mites
are more serious on stressed plants, and are often unable to gain
a foot hold on healthy, vigorous plants. Different kinds of nutrient
additives are avaiable whick strenghten plants from the inside out,
helping to make them more pest resistant.
The second step it to regularly monitor for mites before they cause
damage. Tetranychus urticae live in colonies on the underside
of leaves and are very hard to see with the naked eye. Their tiny
webs on the bottom of leaves are sometimes more easily seen then
the little spiders are themselves. The spiders look like tiny black
dots. It is possible to see them just by looking, but they are much
easier viewed with a magnifying glass. They can be seen on both
tops and bottoms of leaves, but they seem to prefer staying on the
underneath part.
The first sign of an infestation is a sprinkling of tiny yellow
dots on the upper side of plant leaves. The dots are the dead plant
cells caused by the mites' feeding behavior. By the time this damage
is spotted it is often too late to stop some damage from occurring.
The ideal is to spot them before they start causing noticeable problems.
If you look regularly you will definately notice a couple mites
on leaves weeks before serious damage has been caused. If you take
action at this point, you will be able to prevent a much larger
problem.
Physical Control
It is possible to physically control mites before their populations
get too high. They are easily washed off with a spray of water.
They can also be wiped away with a wet cloth. This is easier to
do on one or two plants than on many, so it may not be as applicable
in larger growing operations.
What IS practical however, is the washing off of young plants before
they are transplanted into their final growing places. If you have
had problems with mites or if you are receiving new plants from
another grower, you would be wise to rinse the leaves of your young
clones or seedlings before introducing them to your main growing
room. Be sure to rinse the bottom part of the leaves.
It is also very important to keep the growing area clear of dead
plant material. Dead leaves should be removed from growing areas
as soon as possible, as they often contain mite colonies and clusters
of eggs. Dead plant material is also a breeding ground for fungus
gnats.
Pesticides
The main problem with using pesticides is that if you rely as pesticides
as the main control in your system, sooner or later the resident pest
population becomes resistant. To suppress them, you'll have to used
different or more pesticides which gets progressively more hazardous,
bothersome and expensive. Pesticides will also kill predators, making
pest control harder and more expensive in the future.
If you choose to use pesticides, we highly recommend using botanical
ones. Spider mites are usually not killed by regular insecticides,
so be sure to check the pesticide label to see if "miticide"
is present. Pesticides claiming "for mite suppression"
are usually weak miticides and will not perform well. There are
several natural sprays we carry including GC Mite, Pyrethrins and
Neem oil. All of these will break down quickly after only a few
days. Insecticidal soaps are also effective agains spider mites.Some
natural sprays can be used right up until harvest, but it will be
up to you to decide if that is a good thing to do or not. Be careful
when using sprays on flowers and buds as you might damage them or
leave them open to mold.
Predator Mites
If you have repeat harvests and regularly have a problem with spider
mites, predator mites might be the best option for you. As a balance
of predators to pests is achieved within a grow area, there is less
fluctuations of pest populations. Eventually, only small periodic
releases of the predators are required. In large grow areas where
undisturbed sections are available, the beneficials may establish
themselves indoors and procreate without much help from you.
There are three main kinds of predator mites, each suited to a
particular environment. If you are not sure which kind will work
best you can usually get a standard mix of all three.
-
Phytoseiulus persimilis: One of the most effective predators
of pest mites on ornamental and fod plants. Well adapted to humid
greenhouse conditions. When temperatures are around 70°-85°
F. and 70%Rh., this predatory mites species can reproduce about
twice as fast as the two-spotted spider mite. Well adapted to humid
greenhouse conditions. Not appropriate in hot, dry environments.
-
Mesoseiulus longipes Does best in warm to hot greenhouses.
Tolerant of lower humidities (40% RH at 70° F). Frequently used
to control spider mites in hot greenhouses on tall plants. It tolerates
lower humidities than P. persimilis.
-
Neoseiulus californicusDoes best in warm humid conditions,
but will also tolerate low humidity (40% - 80%rh at 50° - 105°F).
Occurs naturally along coast and inland valleys of California.
excellent general predator for control on roses and vegetable crops
in greenhouses.
It tolerates higher temperatures and lower humidities
than P. persimilis.
You should do a series of two or three releases over a two week
period. This will ensure that your predators eat all stages of spider
mite populations (eggs, nymphs, adults.) Start with 1 predator for
every 20-25 spider-mites (count spider-mites on a few leaves, &
average them out for a rough estimate). This gives control in about
4-6 weeks. Using more predators speeds up the process. For example,
using 1 predator for every 5 spider-mites brings control in about
2 weeks.
What to do if you already have a Large Problem
In the case of a high pest population, you will have better luck
supressing it if you eliminate part of it before introducing the
predators. This can be done by pruning off highly damaged areas
(which probably have large populations on them) and by using a botanical
pesticide. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils can be used
up to two days before release of predators (be careful, residual
pesticdes will last a month and will kill your new predators.)
You can also release twice as many predators on the first release
as is normally called for. That will make a quick dent in your pest
populations.
Bessin, Ric Two-Spotted Spider Mite. Cooperative
Extension Service Bulleting University of Kentucky College of Agriculture.
http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/PAT/recs/crop/pdf/entfa310.pdf
Daar, Sheila, Olkowski, William, Olkowski, Helga .
1991.Chapter 6: Pests of Indoor Plants in Common-Sense
Pest Control. The Taunton Press.Newtown, CT
|